Review: Eberhard Chronographe 1887 Limited Edition

Hnads-on review of the Eberhard Chronographe 1887 Limited Edition, an exceptional flyback chronograph with column-wheel movement. Price €6,960

Founded in 1887, Eberhard has a long-standing tradition of excellence in mechanical chronographs. The Chronographe 1887 Limited Edition builds on this rich heritage, combining vintage-inspired design with technical sophistication.

This flyback chronograph (or retour en vol in French) is powered by a refined hand-wound column-wheel movement. It is available in three limited editions of 250 pieces each, with dial variations in eggshell (ref. 31081.01 CP), black (ref. 31081.02 CP), and bronze with silvered counters (ref. 31081.03 CP).

We recently had the opportunity to wear and test the eggshell dial version—a timepiece we thoroughly enjoyed—and we’re pleased to share our images and impressions with our readers.

The Chronographe 1887 Limited Edition draws its elegant style from original chronographs of the 1930s and beyond, many of which are preserved at the Eberhard & Co. Museum in La Chaux-de-Fonds. 

Eberhard double pusher chronograph featuring start and stop functions without reset - 1935

The watch comes in a 41.50 mm x 13.90 mm round case crafted from stainless steel with charming elements like the onion-shaped crown with coaxial push-button and the twisted lugs.

The sinuous lines are highlighted by alternating polished and satin-brushed surfaces. Water resistance is rated at 50 metres / 165 feet.

Wearability is excellent thanks to the ergonomic profile and curved lugs. For reference, the wrist shown in the photographs measures 17.8 cm / 7 inches.

Protected by a subtly domed sapphire crystal, the semi-matt eggshell (coquille d'œuf) dial features a historical logo, documented in early 1900s archives, and three precision scales.

• At the centre, a blue spiralling tachymeter scale (km/h) measures speed over a known distance.
• Around the black hour markers, a minutes scale is calibrated to 1/5th of a second.
• On the outer ring, a telemeter scale calculates the distance to an event that can be both seen and heard, such as lightning and thunder or fireworks. Historically, telemeter scales were often used in military watches to determine the location of enemy artillery.

The chronograph’s 30-minute counter and running seconds are displayed in recessed subdials at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock, respectively.

A set of finely crafted hands ensures both clarity and aesthetic harmony. The hour and minute hands feature a tapered, faceted design that catches the light, enhancing legibility. 

The blued chronograph seconds hand is elongated and slender, counterbalanced by an oval-shaped weight for precision and stability. For the two counters, leaf-shaped hands with angular facets offer an elegant yet functional presence.

The rectangular pusher at 2 o’clock controls the start and stop functions of the chronograph.

Integrated with the non-screwed crown and embossed with an “E” in relief, the second push-button serves a dual function:

a) If the chronograph is stopped, it resets the seconds hand to zero.

b) If the chronograph is running, it resets the hand to zero and immediately starts a new measurement upon release, enabling the flyback function.

Upon reset, the seconds hand moves either backward from 1 to 29 or forward from 30 to 59.

Also known as retour en vol, the flyback function was introduced in the 1930s to help pilots time different flight stages. Unlike a traditional chronograph, which requires three separate actions—stop, reset, and restart—the flyback mechanism allows the seconds hand to return instantly to zero and resume timing with a single press of the push-button. 

Inspired by the golden age of aviation, this complication underscores Eberhard’s connection to the world of flight. Just consider the celebrated Eberhard 'Sistema Magini' split-seconds monopusher chronograph, which played a role in the secret Rome-Tokyo visual flight of 1942.

The caseback, through a transparent sapphire crystal, reveals the exclusive calibre EB 280, developed by Eberhard & Co. in collaboration with Manufacture AMT,  a high-end movement manufacturer based in La Chaux-de-Fonds.

The design of this hand-wound column-wheel chronograph movement involved substantial structural and aesthetic interventions. A custom lever was created to position the chronograph reset pusher coaxially with the crown.

A custom upper bridge, shaped like the brand’s emblematic shield, features Côtes de Genève decoration and blue engravings. This technical component is both structurally integral to the calibre and symbolically significant, representing the solidity of Eberhard’s creations.

The large blued column wheel, an essential component of a high-end chronograph, can be seen on the left side while, on the top right, you can notice the balance wheel, oscillating at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) with a power reserve of 63 hours.

Secured by four screws, the caseback features engraved inscriptions: 'CHRONOGRAPHE 1887' and 'R. A COLONNES FLYBACK,' along with the individual number of each timepiece (xxx/250).

The operation of this column-wheel chronograph movement was exceptionally smooth. The feel of the chronograph pushers, especially when engaging the flyback function, was highly satisfying. It's rare to experience such seamless fluidity, even in chronographs with significantly higher price tags.

The watch is paired with an alligator leather strap with a stainless steel buckle personalised with the “E” shield. Eberhard’s patented Déclic deployment clasp is optionally available. The lug width is 20 mm.

With a price of €6,960, the Eberhard Chronographe 1887 Limited Edition highlights the brand’s expertise in crafting exceptional chronographs. 

This particular model stands out for its refined design, vintage charm, and mechanical sophistication. Given the high level of craftsmanship in both the case and dial, along with the technical refinement of the movement, and its limited production, the price is particularly appealing. eberhard-co-watches.ch