Our hands-on review of the Edouard Koehn Tempus III Chronograph. We tested both the Openworked and Guilloché versions. Prices from CHF 7,460
Following the 2024 debut of the Tempus III Chronograph collection by Swiss independent brand Edouard Koehn, we had the chance to wear and test two captivating models from this sporty line. In this review, we share our impressions along with live pictures.
The Tempus III Chronograph collection comprises 10 references, all crafted from Grade 5 titanium and distinguished by their unique combinations of colours and finishes.
Much lighter than steel and boasting an exceptional weight-to-strength ratio, titanium offers several remarkable qualities, from its hypoallergenic properties to its high resistance to corrosion. While its mechanical strength makes it more challenging to work with, it also enhances durability.
In particular, Grade 5 titanium—an alloy composed of 90% titanium, 6% aluminum, and 4% vanadium—has a brighter appearance than pure Grade 2 titanium. Thanks to its superior strength and hardness, it allows for more refined finishing techniques, especially when alternating polished and satin surfaces.
As outlined in our introductory article, the Tempus III collection features two main variations: the Tempus III Skeleton Chronograph and the Tempus III Guilloché Chronograph. These models are available in five dial colours, with bezels offered in ceramic (in blue, green, or black to complement the dial’s accents) or in Grade 5 titanium (for the ice blue and sand dials).
For our hands-on experience, we tested the Tempus III Skeleton Chronograph with a blue ceramic bezel and openworked blue dial accents (ref. EK-CHR07SRBE), as well as the Tempus III Guilloché with a Grade 5 titanium bezel and an ice blue guilloché dial (ref. EK-CHR10GRIB).
We were particularly impressed by the Tempus III's case design. Measuring 41 mm in diameter and 14.5 mm in height, its dynamic lines evoke automotive inspiration.
The faceted surfaces interact with light in different ways, creating captivating reflections, while polished edges accentuate its precise geometry.
The finishes are flawlessly executed, enhancing the overall appeal.
The black pushers, crafted from Grade 5 titanium and coated with black DLC, are seamlessly integrated into the bold design.
The large screw-down crown, featuring a black insert and also made of Grade 5 titanium with black DLC coating, is perfectly sized for easy handling.
Thanks to its lightweight construction, robust build, and water resistance to 100 metres (330 feet), the watch is highly versatile and well-suited for daily wear.
On the wrist, it offers excellent comfort, aided by its ergonomic design and the seamlessly integrated rubber strap. For reference, the wrist in our pictures measures 17.8 cm / 7 in.
Framed by a raised, polished and satin-brushed bezel and protected by a flat sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides, the dial—whether openworked or guilloché—features a tri-compax layout.
It includes 30-minute and 12-hour chronograph counters at 3 o’clock and 6 o’clock, respectively, along with a running seconds sub-dial at 9 o’clock.
For optimal readability at a glance, all three chronograph hands, including the central seconds hand, are highlighted in red for instant recognition.
The hour markers and skeletonised hour and minute hands are coated with Super-LumiNova, a luminescent material that emits a green glow in low-light conditions.
The openworked dial of the Tempus III Skeleton Chronograph reveals glimpses of the skeletonised movement beneath, while the dial of the Tempus III Guilloché Chronograph showcases intricate patterns that create captivating light reflections.
This decorative technique causes light to interact dynamically with the engraved surfaces depending on the angle of the wrist.
Unlike the Tempus III Skeleton, which features a date display between 4 and 5 o’clock, the Tempus III Guilloché omits it to preserve the purity of the dial decoration.
Another distinction between the two is the placement of the Edouard Koehn logo: in the Skeleton model, it is transferred in white beneath the crystal, whereas in the Guilloché versions, it is printed on a nameplate affixed directly to the dial.
The Edouard Koehn Tempus III Chronograph models are powered by the EK-CHR-MVT01 self-winding chronograph movement developed by Concepto, an independent Swiss Manufacture of high-end mechanical movements based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, just like Edouard Koehn.
Exclusively modified for Edouard Koehn, this 4 Hz ( 28,800 vibrations per hour) movement features a cam-actuated mechanism which guarantees great reliability. We liked the smooth start/stop and reset operations offering a satisfying feel.
Through the smoked sapphire crystal case-back, it is possible to appreciate the grained finishes and the openworked ceramic ball-bearing oscillating weight which provides a power reserve of 48 hours.
The watches come with integrated vulcanised rubber straps featuring an easy-change system for quick, tool-free swaps. The double folding clasp, crafted from Grade 5 titanium, is engraved with the brand’s emblem—an eight-pointed compass rose—symbolising precision and a clear sense of direction.
The Edouard Koehn Tempus III Skeleton Chronograph is priced at CHF 7,780 while the Tempus III Guilloché Chronograph retails at CHF 7,460.
The Edouard Koehn Tempus III Chronograph models strike a harmonious balance of design, craftsmanship, and performance, and, given their overall quality, they are attractively priced.
We were particularly drawn to the dynamic case design, the impeccable finishes of high-tech materials like Grade 5 titanium and ceramic, and the sophistication of the dials.
Whether you’re captivated by the openworked charm of the Skeleton or the understated elegance of the Guilloché, both versions provide a highly satisfying wear experience. edouardkoehn.com
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