Breguet Classique Tourbillon 3358: diamonds and horological mastery

Explore the Breguet Classique Tourbillon 3358: snow-set diamonds, mother-of-pearl accents, and a tourbillon calibre. Price €98,300

The new Breguet Classique Tourbillon 3358 combines a sophisticated tourbillon, one of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s most celebrated inventions, with a spectacular array of diamonds all around it.

Patented in 1801, the tourbillon places all the components of the escapement on a rotating platform that moves on its own axis. Its primary function is to counteract the effects of Earth’s gravity, which can disrupt the precision of pocket watches, thereby improving timekeeping accuracy.

In the Classique Tourbillon 3358, the horological feat operates within the hand-wound manufacture calibre 187D, equipped with a Breguet balance spring in steel which beats at a frequency of 2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations per hour) with a power reserve of 50 hours.

The tourbillon is showcased at the bottom of the dial through a circular aperture framed by an elliptical polished gold ring. A ribbon of diamonds adorns the slightly curved gold bridge that holds it in place.

The centre of the dial is adorned with brilliant-cut diamonds arranged using a dazzling snow-setting technique. Employing six different diameters, the artisans have meticulously set each precious stone on the gold disc in a random pattern, seamlessly masking any trace of the supporting metal.

Along the flange, ribbons of diamonds form arcs of circles emanating from the ovoid opening at 6 o’clock, converging toward a wide ring of natural white mother-of-pearl, off-centred at 12 o’clock. This iridescent ring serves as the hour track, featuring black Breguet numerals, swept over by two delicate, Breguet-style open-tipped hands in blued steel.

On the reverse, visible through the sapphire crystal case back, the main plate showcases a rare decorative technique: manual stippling performed with a diamond burr. This process delicately hollows the material to reveal intricate reflections and reliefs, evoking the Moon’s ashen surface.

The 35 mm x 9.3 mm case in white gold features a bezel and lugs adorned with brilliant-cut diamonds. Positioned on the fluted caseband, the crown is topped with a rose-cut diamond. The watch is water-resistant to 3 bar (30 metres / 100 feet).

Paired with a sky-blue alligator leather strap, secured by a triple-blade gold folding clasp set with diamonds, the new Breguet Classique Tourbillon 3358 (ref. 3358BB/8D/986D0) is priced at €98,300. breguet.com

Suggested reading:

- The Tourbillon: history of a watchmaking feat

- The history of Breguet