Review: Louis Erard Le Régulateur Gravé Noir

Our review of Le Régulateur Gravé Noir by Louis Erard, a regulator timepiece combining an engraved dial with a sector-type layout. Price CHF 2,900

Louis Erard has released Le Régulateur Gravé Noir, a new regulator timepiece combining an engraved dial with a sector-type layout. We had the pleasure of previewing and wearing this new model, and we’re now excited to share our photos and impressions.

Regulator wristwatches are characterised by a separate display for each time indicator. Le Régulateur Gravé Noir features Louis Erard's signature design, with a vertical arrangement of the displays: the hours counter at 12 o’clock, the central axis bearing the minutes hand only, and the seconds sub-dial at 6 o'clock.

This model joins the Noirmont collection, the new name for the collection formerly known as Excellence. The new collection is structured around three key pillars: the classic Noirmont model, Noirmont Métiers d’Art, and Noirmont X for collaborations. The Régulateur Gravé Noir, a centrepiece of the Métiers d’Art line, is now part of the permanent collection, marking an important milestone for the brand.

Inspired by the sector dials of the 1930s, Louis Erard brings it into the present, incorporating an age-old watchmaking technique: engraving. 

On a finely grained dial, the engraving adds a subtle interplay of reliefs enhanced by brilliant galvanic treatment. The sector layout, concentric circles, and railway track motif ensure optimal readability.

The Régulateur Gravé Noir is presented in a classic round case in polished stainless steel, measuring 39 mm in diameter with a total thickness of 12.82 mm, including the domed and scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, which is coated with anti-reflective treatment on both sides. 

The typical fir tree crown is engraved with the Louis Erard symbol.

The ideal size and the curved lugs ensure comfortable wear on average wrists. For reference, the wrist in our pictures measures 17.8 cm / 7 inches.

The black dial, with its fine-grained finish, showcases polished rose-gilt indexes, numbers, and railroad tracks, complemented by the signature fir tree hands, also in polished rose-gilt.

The caseback displays the movement through a transparent sapphire crystal. 

Based on a Sellita SW266-1, this automatic regulator-type calibre beats at the frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) with a power reserve of 38 hours. 

The openworked oscillating weight is enhanced by a black lacquered Louis Erard symbol. 

Water-resistant up to a pressure of 5 bars (approximately corresponding to a depth of 50 metres / 165 feet), the watch is paired with a soft beige grained calf-leather strap featuring tone-on-tone stitching and equipped with a stainless steel pin buckle engraved with the Louis Erard logo, along with ergot bars for swift strap changes. The lug width is 20 mm. 

The new Louis Erard Le Régulateur Gravé Noir, ref. 85248AA13.BVA158, is priced at CHF 2,900, excluding local sales taxes. 

With its engraved detailing, sector layout, and classic design, this piece showcases the brand’s commitment to both tradition and innovation. At an accessible price, it’s an attractive option for those who appreciate timeless style and quality watchmaking. louiserard.com

Suggested reading:

- Hands-on review: Le Régulateur Louis Erard Grand Feu Enamel