Breguet is enriching its Classique collection with two models in platinum with Grand Feu enamel dials: Classique 5177 and Classique 7787. Prices
Breguet has enriched its Classique collection with two elegant models that combine noble materials such as platinum and "Grand Feu" enamel: the three-hand Classique 5177PT and the Classique 7787PT, with moon-phases and power reserve indication.
In this collection, this is the first time that Grand Feu enamel dials are encased in platinum cases.
Nicknamed "the metal of kings," platinum is distinguished by its striking grey hue, often mistaken for white gold or silver. However, several qualities set it apart from other natural metals and iron alloys. Its substantial weight, exceptional malleability, and its high resistance to magnetism and corrosion, make platinum a symbol of enduring strength. Additionally, it is hypoallergenic.
Staying true to the collection's signature features, the cases of these two new models showcase a slim bezel, knurled crown, slender lugs, and fluted case band. The Classique 5177PT measures 38 mm in diameter and 8.8 mm in height, while the Classique 7787PT is slightly larger, at 39 mm in diameter and 10.3 mm in height.
Enamelling has been applied to horology since the Renaissance and has remained virtually unchanged over time. Initially, it was used to protect the discs of dials, which were often victims of ageing due to natural light, dust particles and oxidation, as watches were by no means watertight before the middle of the 20th century.
This decorative technique, using a powder made from a mixture of silica and ground oxides, amalgamated with a binder, applied to the dial base and then vitrified, requires meticulous craftsmanship.
Throughout the firing process, each layer and colour applied requires additional firing at a high temperature (between 800 and 1200°C) and for a carefully programmed duration. When in contact with this heat, the enamel fuses and melts to create each layer. The process can take weeks for a single dial.
The Breguet Arabic numerals, the minutes track and the Breguet logo are highlighted in a powdered silver colour that creates a slight contrast with the smooth, uniform black dial.
The inscription “Emaille Grand Feu” appearing at 6 o’clock remarks the preciousness of this dial, completed by white gold Breguet-type hands.
Following the habits of 18th century watchmakers to guarantee the authenticity of a timepiece, these "Grand Feu" enamel dials reveal Breguet's secret signature between the centre and 6 o'clock for the 5177 and to the right of the centre for the 7787.
The Classique 5177 focuses on pure timekeeping with a clean dial featuring a subtle tone-on-tone date window at 3 o'clock.
In contrast, the Classique 7787 adds more complications, including a moon phase display, where a gold moon disc moves against a starry blue background over a 29.5-day graduated scale. Additionally, the Classique 7787 includes a power reserve indicator at the bottom of the dial.
Both models display their manufacture self-winding movement through the transparent sapphire crystal casebacks.
The Classique 5177 is equipped with the 777 Q calibre, beating at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) and incorporating a flat balance-spring made from silicon, a material resistant to wear, corrosion and magnetism adopted by Breguet in 2006.
Its rhodium-plated 18-carat gold oscillating weight is decorated with a hand-engraved "starry mosaic" motif and an exclusive design that echoes the words "Breguet special edition" engraved on the weight. It powers a unique barrel that provides up to 55 hours of power reserve when the watch is fully wound.
Also operating at a frequency of Hz, the 591 DRL calibre of the Classique 7787 delivers 38 hours of power reserve once wound by its rhodium-plated 22-carat gold rotor adorned with hand-made "barley grain" guilloché.
The addition of a pinion on the moon-phase disc enables it to offer a realistic display of the cycle, i.e. 29.5303498 days instead of the 29.5 days generally offered by this type of complication, and therefore closer to the 29.53058888 days of the actual lunar revolution. The difference is therefore limited to one day after 348.7 years.
The new Breguet Classique models, ref. 5177PT/2N/9V601 and ref. 7787PT/2N/9VU, are presented on black alligator leather straps secured with platinum pin buckles, with retail prices of €43,800 and €52,100, respectively. breguet.com
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