Review: Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Tuscan Copper 103856

Our hands-on review with exclusive pictures of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic in stainless steel with salmon dial. Ref. 103856. Price €15,000

Launched in 2012, the Octo Finissimo by Bulgari is undoubtedly one of the most successful mechanical watches introduced in the 21st century, quickly becoming an icon of contemporary watchmaking.

Since then, the Octo Finissimo has been presented in a wide range of variations and complications, setting nine world records for slimness in various watch categories.

The Octo Finissimo Automatic was initially introduced with a sandblasted titanium case, a finish that has become instantly associated with this model. It was later followed by versions in ceramic, stainless steel, and precious metals.

One of the latest interpretations was unveiled at the beginning of 2024: the Octo Finissimo Tuscan Copper Automatic, reference 103856.

After spending a week with this outstanding luxury steel watch, we are excited to share our impressions and live photos. Simply click on the images to enlarge them.

Characterised by a striking sunray Tuscan copper dial in a salmon hue that is rare among Bulgari's timepieces, reference 103856 comes in a 40 mm x 6.4 mm case with sculpted lines defined by 58 facets.

The case and bracelet are crafted from 904L stainless steel (which is particularly resistant to corrosion) and meticulously finished with a combination of satin-brushed and polished surfaces.

The crown is set with a black ceramic inlay and screwed-down to make the watch water resistant up to a pressure of 10 bar (100 metres / 330 feet), improving the performance of the titanium version which, without a screwed-down crown and with its slimmer 5.15 mm profile, can ensure waterproofness to 30 metres / 100 feet.

This is not a minor difference. With its enhanced water resistance, the Octo Finissimo Automatic Tuscan Copper can be worn in almost any situation, from swimming and showering to attending a business meeting. For reference, the wrist in our pictures measures 17.8 cm / 7 in.

Designed with supple, articulated links for exceptional comfort, the satin-polished bracelet integrates seamlessly with the case design. The ultra-thin butterfly clasp is an engineering feat in itself.

Getting back to the dial, we can appreciate the elegant contrast that the rhodium-plated hands and indexes create against the radiant coppery face.

The elegant layout is enhanced by the large "12" and "6" numerals and the small seconds subdial, asymmetrically positioned between 7 and 8 o'clock.

The transparent caseback reveals the Manufacture BVL138 calibre. Thanks to a highly efficient platinum micro-rotor, this automatic movement—just 2.23 mm thick—demonstrates Bulgari's exceptional watchmaking prowess. 

Despite the constraints involved in developing an ultra-thin watch calibre, the movement is beautifully hand-decorated with Côtes de Genève stripes, chamfered bridges, and circular-grained baseplate.

Beating at a frequency of 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour), the BVL138 calibre offers a remarkable 60 hours of power reserve.

Priced at €15,000 (incl. VAT) / US$ 13,500 (excl. sales taxes), the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Tuscan Copper 103856 combines a refined and truly distinctive aesthetic with engineering innovation, making it a standout choice for those seeking both style and technical excellence. bulgari.com

Suggested reading:

- The history of Bulgari watches