At Watches and Wonders 2024, Roger Dubuis unveiled the Orbis in Machina Central Monotourbillon, their first central tourbillon model. Price €200,000
Extravagant and disruptive in its stylistic approach, Roger Dubuis has nonetheless always shown great respect for traditional watchmaking techniques and principles.
At Watches and Wonders 2024 in Geneva (April 9-15), the Swiss brand unveiled a creation that puts one of the most appreciated watchmaking feats at centre stage, the Orbis in Machina Central Monotourbillon.
This imposing timepiece, measuring 45 mm in diameter and crafted from 18kt pink gold, is Roger Dubuis’ first central tourbillon timepiece launched as part of the main collection – and will be released in a series of only 88 pieces.
Its name, Orbis in Machina, is a nod to the revolving nature of the tourbillon.
The central monotourbillon is a rare find in watchmaking. In fact, this technical solution poses a number of challenges, such as finding a different way to display the hands, while also redistributing the movement’s components around the tourbillon itself.
Built from 283 components and with 29 rubies, the hand-wound Calibre RD115 with central flying tourbillon places the winding and setting functions - selectable using the pusher at 2 o'clock - at the bottom of the movement, thus liberating more space above for the hour hand. A small indicator just below the Poinçon de Genève at 3 o'clock displays the active function.
To increase resistance to magnetic fields and keep perfect control of the weight, the lower tourbillon cage is in anti-magnetic titanium – twice lighter than stainless steel – while the upper tourbillon cage is in mirror-polished Cobalt Chrome, which is also non-magnetic and enables the weight of the tourbillon to be reduced by 16%. Operating at a frequency of 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour), it offers a power reserve of 72 hours.
Along with these challenges, the central placement of the tourbillon gave the watchmakers of Roger Dubuis the opportunity to play with the aesthetics of the display, playing around the concept of concentricity.
Contrasting concentric circles in pink gold and grey indicate the seconds, minutes, and hours.
The 3D discs for the minutes and hours displays are particularly prominent and are contrasted by open-worked flying hands, mounted on ball bearings, that are double-sided and sharp. This particular display required the invention of a patent-pending system, which can safely disengage the hands and allow for stable adjustment of the time.
A similar double-sided approach has been taken for the flange, which houses the hour indications on the outer perimeter.
All of the circles have been set at different heights, delivering a multi-level design that reveals glimpses of the skeletonised calibre beneath.
Through the transparent sapphire crystal caseback, it is possible to appreciate the impeccable finishes of Calibre RD115.
The dedication of the brand to the Poinçon de Genève (Hallmark of Geneva) certification ensures that every component surface within the calibre is hand-decorated to the highest standard. The sliced bridges and the rounder lines are rooted in classic Geneva Haute Horologie. Nineteen specific finishing techniques are used, including Perlage, Côte de Genève, and snailing.
The new Roger Dubuis Orbis in Machina Central Monotourbillon, ref. DBEX1119, has an indicative price of Euro 200,000 before sales taxes. rogerdubuis.com
COMMENTS