In 2024 Bulgari releases the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC 104081, the thinnest mechanical watch and the world's thinnest COSC chronometer. Price €600,000
Bulgari is announcing today the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC, not only the thinnest mechanical watch ever produced but also the world's thinnest COSC chronometer.
With this exceptional creation, Bulgari further raised the bar in high-end mechanical watchmaking.
Never before has a mechanical watch resistant to shocks and magnetic been made so slim – just 1.70 mm, even thinner than a coin!
The quest for this record began with the unveiling of the Octo Finissimo Ultra and its remarkable thickness of only 1.80 mm in 2022 (a few months later, Richard Mille set a new world record record with the 1.75 mm-thick RM UP-01 Ferrari).
Convinced the limits had not been reached, Bulgari's R&D department, in collaboration with Concepto, an esteemed independent manufacturer renowned for crafting high-end mechanical movements based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, resolved to push the envelope even further.
Given that the limits of movement slimness had already been reached with the Octo Finissimo Ultra, achieving an even slimmer profile for the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC involved a rework of the case by optimizing the sapphire crystal. Through patient and meticulous incremental steps, engineers successfully shaved off that crucial tenth of a millimeter, setting a new world record.
In terms of the overall structure, the case back serves as the mainplate, upon which the 170 components of the hand-wound 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) BVL180 manufacture calibre are assembled.
These components undergo selection using 1/10-micron optical measuring systems to ensure the closest possible match to the perfect dimension.
This COSC-certified mechanical movement introduces another layer of complexity and marks a first for the Ultra line. The challenge of ensuring sufficient rigidity for a watch measuring 40 mm in diameter and just 1.70 mm thick was met by crafting case back/mainplate from particularly dense, hard, and ultra-resistant tungsten carbide. Middle case, bezel and lugs are made from titanium with the signature sandblasted finish.
To maximize the use of the watch's surface area, the hour and minute dials in sandblasted brass with grey PVD coating, the large barrel – with a 50-hour power reserve – and the escapement cleverly play with the circular geometry of the bezel opening. The small seconds display directly on the fourth wheel at 6 o'clock.
The QR code previously found on the ratchet of the 2022 model has been replaced with a smaller Datamatrix located on the back. This Datamatrix is more compact and capable of storing extra data. Its purpose is to offer comprehensive information about the watch and encourage individuals to explore the Bulgari universe on a personalized level.
The Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC also reinvents the experience of setting and winding a watch. In alternative to hand winding, you can place your watch in the dedicated box, equipped with a digital display. The desired time is then programmed, and the adjustment cycle launched at the touch of a button. In a matter of seconds, the watch is perfectly adjusted and wound.
The titanium bracelet with fully integrated folding buckle, an engineering feat by itself, is 1.50 mm thin. The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC (104081) is being introduced in limited series of 20 pieces, priced at Euro 600,000.
Together with the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC, Bulgari also unveiled the Octo Finissimo Ultra Platinum, reference 103832.
This model features sandblasted and polished lugs, satin-finish bezel and polished middle case, all crafted from 950 platinum. The back/plate element is in tungsten carbide for optimal rigidity.
A distinctive feature of this version is the blue PVD coating used for the hour and minute regulator display counters in satin-finish brass.
The bracelet is also in platinum with a satin-polished finish. The integrated clasp is made of titanium to guarantee greater reliability (tested to 5000 cycles).
This model, equipped with the BVL 180 manufacture caliber without COSC certification, is 1.80 mm thin, a record for a platinum watch.
The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Platinum (103832) is offered in a limited edition of 20 units, with a price tag of Euro 620,000. bulgari.com
Suggested reading:
From left to right, the Octo Finissimo Ultra 103611 released in 2022, the new Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC 104081, and the Octo Finissimo Ultra Platinum 103832
Impressive achievement! It’s out of this world (and the price too).
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