Bulgari unveiled three Octo Finissimo Sketch Limited Editions for its 140th Anniversary. Ref. 104163, 104165, 104192. Prices from €17,800
Founded in Rome in 1884 by a talented Greek silversmith, Sotirios Voulgaris (1857-1932), who later decided to Italianise his name in Sotirio Bulgari (the phonetic version of his surname), Bulgari is celebrating its 140th anniversary in 2024.
The Manufacture is marking this special occasion by building upon the approach initiated with the Octo Finissimo 10th Anniversary Editions in 2022. It introduces three new Octo Finissimo Limited Editions, each showcasing illustrated dials that depict the movements as if one were observing the watch from the reverse side, as seen through an open case back.
The inaugural Octo Finissimo Automatic Sketch series will be available in two limited editions – 280 pieces in steel and 70 in rose gold. Here, the ‘dial’ uniquely showcases the watch’s micro-rotor, escapement, bridges, rubies, and intricate finishing details (such as Côtes de Genève, circular graining) as sketched by Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Product Creation Executive Director.
With natural and spontaneous strokes, these sketches highlight the key features of the Finissimo, seamlessly blending technical expertise with artistic expression.
In the polished and satin-finished steel version, ref. 104163, the shades of gray are dominant: off-white for the sketch background; carbon, as if drawn by Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani's pencil; charcoal for the hands; and, of course, steel for the case and bracelet.
The 18K 5N rose gold version, designated as ref. 104165, exudes elegance and sophistication, with polished and satin-finished details throughout the case and bracelet, complemented by a captivating dial subtly accented with shades of gray on its hands and sketch.
Measuring 40 mm in diameter with a thickness of 6.4 mm, each edition is powered by the in-house BVL 138 calibre.
With its 208 components and 31 jewels, this ultra-slim Manufacture movement (2.23 mm) features a new automatic winding system, along with a new structure for the escapement and balance. Beating at 21,600 vibrations per hour, it offers 60 hours of autonomy.
The sapphire case back is uniquely etched with "EDIZIONE LIMITATA" and "1884 – 2024" to commemorate Bulgari's 140th anniversary.
The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Sketch in stainless steel (ref. 104163) retails at Euro 17,800 while the Octo Finissimo Automatic Sketch in rose gold (ref. 104165) is priced at Euro 51,500.
The third limited edition is the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Sketch 104192, featuring a 43 mm polished stainless steel case with a slimness of 8.75 mm to house the two complications.
The automatic manufacture movement with a peripheral oscillating weight provides a 55-hour power reserve. This innovative design, essential for achieving the watch’s record-breaking thinness in 2019 (you can read about it here), incorporates a caliber measuring a mere 3.3 mm in height that not only includes a 30-minute chronograph and central second but also displays a second time zone at 3 o'clock.
Limited to just 140 pieces, this edition showcases a sketch combining key elements of the dial with the back of the movement: the typical Tri-Compax chronograph display (GMT at 3 o'clock, 30-minute counter at 6 o'clock, small seconds at 9 o'clock), the balance wheel between 4 and 5 o'clock, the column wheel at 8 o'clock, and other finishing details on the bridges and gears. The final pictures of the watch are not yet available as we publish this article, but we can share the dial illustration.
The open caseback showcases the 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour) BVL 318 caliber with the special markings "EDIZIONE LIMITATA" and Bulgari's anniversary, "1884 – 2024."
The price of the new Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Sketch (ref. 104192) is Euro 20,800. bulgari.com
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