Review: Edouard Koehn World Heritage II Universal Time & Alarm

Our review of the Edouard Koehn World Heritage II Universal Time & Alarm, a blend of functionality and elegance. Attractively priced at CHF 8,500

Timepieces featuring a world time complication, allowing wearers to track time across all 24 time zones, are highly valued by frequent travelers and professionals dealing with global interactions. Their appeal, however, goes way beyond these categories.

When you combine universal time with an alarm function, the result is a rare find, making such a wristwatch highly desirable — especially when these features are thoughtfully arranged in an aesthetically pleasing ensemble. The Edouard Koehn World Heritage II Universal Time & Alarm model, launched in 2023, perfectly exemplifies this sought-after combination.

Headquartered in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, a historic hub of time measurement, the Edouard Koehn Manufacture draws its name from the 19th-century Swiss watchmaker who founded the brand in 1891. After serving at the court of the Grand Duchy of Saxony-Weimar-Eisenach and working at Patek Philippe as a Director for nearly three decades, Edouard Koehn's legacy lives on.

Preserving the original spirit of Edouard Koehn, the revived company focuses on crafting timepieces in small series with meticulous care. 

We recently had the opportunity to go hands-on with the Edouard Koehn World Heritage II Universal Time & Alarm, particularly testing the version with an ice blue dial, and we are now delighted to share our impressions and live photographs.

In addition to this version, four other variations - silver, green, blue, and anthracite - are available, as described in our our presentation article published last year.  For each colour version, only 88 pieces will be produced, in line with the philosophy of the brand.

The watch is presented in a 42 mm x 14.50 mm case, meticulously crafted from polished Grade 5 titanium, an alloy (composed of titanium, aluminum, and vanadium) renowned for its lightweight and durable properties, surpassing those of steel.

The choice of titanium extends beyond its physical attributes, as it also plays a crucial role in ensuring optimal acoustic performance when the alarm is activated.

The engraved symbols on each of the two crowns suggest their specific functions: the crown at 2 o’clock oversees time setting, while the second crown at 4 o’clock is designated for alarm adjustments.

While the crowns are not screwed down for practicality, water resistance is still guaranteed up to a pressure of 5 bar (50 metres / 165 feet), making the watch well-equipped to withstand various environmental conditions.

On the wrist, the watch offers excellent comfort thanks to its lightness and curved lugs that ergonomically contour the wrist’s profile. For reference, the wrist in our pictures measures 17.8 cm / 7 in.

Elegantly balanced in every detail, the dial of the  Edouard Koehn World Heritage II Universal Time & Alarm is captivating and operates in concentric layers.

Two large Alpha hands mark the passing of time in combination with applied hour-markers positioned on the guilloché sector, a decoration that significantly enhances the watch's appearance.

Both the hands and indexes are filled with Super-LumiNova, emitting a green glow for enhanced readability in low-light conditions. This is further facilitated by the double-sided anti-reflective treatment applied to the domed sapphire crystal protecting the dial.

The central section showcases a raised world map that employs the Lambert projection, a mapping technique commonly used for aeronautical charts, resulting from projecting the three-dimensional surface onto a two-dimensional plane.

This map and the surrounding ring, which displays the main cities in each time zone, rotate completely in 24 hours, operating in coordination with the fixed 24-hour graduated ring that we encounter moving outwards. Once synchronised with the main hour hand, no further adjustment is needed.

All these operations are easily performed using the crown at 2 o’clock, which has three positions: 

1. Manual winding (34 turns for full winding)

2. Rapid correction of world time over 24 hours

3. Time setting with a stop-second function

The outer ring is dedicated to the alarm function, with each hour subdivided into 15-minute segments. 

Indicated by a fine hand with a red arrowhead, the alarm time can be set using the crown at 4 o'clock.

 

Configuring this function is straightforward. With the crown in position 1, users can wind the alarm function. Subsequently, in position 2, the red arrowhead can be rotated counterclockwise to align with the desired time on the ring. 

To enable the alarm to ring at the set time, it is essential to keep the crown pulled out in position 2.

Visible through the transparent sapphire crystal caseback, the automatic EK-MVTWTA01 calibre operates at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) and offers a 48-hour autonomy thanks to its double barrel which is simultaneously winding the watch and the alarm functions. 

The meticulous finishes include perlage, Geneva stripes for the ball-bearing-mounted central oscillating mass, blued screws and solarisation of the wheels. 

The EK-MVTWTA01 has been developed in partnership with Concepto, an esteemed independent manufacturer renowned for crafting high-end mechanical movements. Also hailing from La Chaux-de-Fonds, Concepto aligns seamlessly with the ethos of the Edouard Koehn brand. This collaboration ensures that the heart of the watch, its movement, is a harmonious blend of technical excellence and true Swiss craftsmanship.

The watch is paired with an alligator leather strap and secured to the wrist by a double folding clasp with security push-buttons. The lug width is 22mm.

Limited to 88 pieces per colour variation, the Edouard Koehn's World Heritage II is a successful  blend of functionality and elegance. Attractively priced at CHF 8,500, its allure is heightened by the seamless integration of universal time and alarm functions, along with the meticulous attention to detail and the overall quality. edouardkoehn.com