Breguet - Type XX, the new 2023 generation

Breguet unveiled the 2023 generation of the Type XX. Two versions: Type 20 Chronographe 2057 and Type XX Chronographe 2067. Price €19,400

Breguet has unveiled the new generation of its iconic Type XX pilot's watches, this time issued in two versions: one military-inspired and the other drawing on the finest civilian models.

Introduced in  the early 1950s, the Type XX was one of the most popular pilot watches produced in the post-World War II years (you can read more about the history of the Breguet Type XX here).

Drawing inspiration from the first-generation models, Breguet has infused these new models with a modern character while incorporating significant technological advances.

The first model, the military-inspired Type 20 Chronographe 2057, is inspired by the 1,100 timepieces delivered to the French Air Force between 1955 and 1959. Its name appeared as Type 20 in Arabic numerals, unlike all the others, including those of the Aéronautique Navale, whose name was written Type XX in Roman numerals. 

Chronographe Breguet Type 20 militaire N. 7211

Its black dial has been slightly modernised while remaining faithful to the Type 20 identity. The Arabic numerals and triangle on the bezel are luminescent, boasting a mint green hue, as do all the hands. 

The 30-minute totalizer, positioned at 3 o'clock, now takes up more space than the 60-second totalizer at 9 o'clock, and a date window has been added between 4 and 5 o'clock. 

The 42 mm x 14.1 mm stainless steel case is fitted with a non-engraved fluted bidirectional bezel, just like the models delivered to military air forces in the past. 

The crown reflecting the original pear-shape, is adjustable in three positions: 1) neutral, 2) date correction, 3) time setting. The 2 o’clock pusher starts and stop the chronograph, the one at 4 o’clock is used for the “flyback” function or to reset the chronograph and the minute totalizer.

The "flyback" function makes it possible to reset a chronograph without having to first stop it, thus allowing an even faster and more accurate measurement of events.

The Type XX Chronographe 2067, the second timepiece in the collection, holds a direct lineage to the civilian Type XX models of the 1950s and 1960s, including the notable 1957 edition with the individual number 2988.

Chronographe Breguet Type XX N. 2988

While its dial is black as the first model, the 2067 showcases a few distinctive features. First of all, its display arrangement: the 15-minute totalizer is located at 3 o’clock, the 12- hour totalizer at 6 o’clock and running seconds at 9 o’clock. Just as in the military-inspired version, the totalizer is sized differently to make the dial more legible.

The Arabic numerals, the hands and the triangle on the bezel are treated with an ivory-coloured luminescent coating. A date window is positioned between 4 and 5 o'clock, providing added functionality.

The 42 mm  x 14.1 mm stainless steel case is fitted with a fluted bidirectional graduated bezel. Its classic straight crown enables setting in three positions: 1) neutral, 2) date correction, 3) time setting. The 2 o’clock pusher starts and stops the chronograph functions, while the one at 4 o’clock resets and restarts the chronograph immediately, based on the “flyback” principle.

Visible through the sapphire crystal casebacks, the new self-winding Calibre 728 for the civilian version and Calibre 7281 for the military version are the result of four years of development and several technical patents, offer robustness, innovation, and the latest chronometry advancements.

Featuring a column wheel, vertical clutch, 5 Hz frequency (36,000 vibrations per hour), and an inventive zero-resetting activation system, these movements make use of silicon for the balance-spring, escape-wheel, and pallet-lever horns to enhance corrosion resistance, wear resistance, and accuracy by eliminating magnetic field interference. 

The activation and zero-resetting systems ensure precise and smooth performance, evenly distributing pressure on the pushers. The vertical clutch mechanism ensures immediate start without jerks, while a cross-through bridge secures the balance for durability and precision.

To optimize space and guarantee a 60-hour power reserve, the barrel is carefully sized and employs a high-energy-density spring. 

Finishes include sunburst patterns, snailing, bevelling, circular-graining, and a black DLC treatment on the column wheel for visual contrast and improved properties. Shaped like an aircraft wing, the blackened oscillating weight is engraved with the Breguet logo.

The new Type XX chronographs are water resistant to 100 metres / 330 feet and fitted with a calfskin strap along with an additional black NATO strap. The rapid interchange 15 system of the bracelets has been designed to enable the easy, independent and tool-free removal of the leather strap. 

Delivered in a havana-coloured leather presentation box reminiscent of an aircraft wing, the Breguet Type 20 Chronographe 2057 (ref. 2057ST/92/3WU) and the Type XX Chronographe 2067 (ref. 2067ST/92/3WU) have retail prices of Euro 19,400. breguet.com