Hands-on review of the Glashütte Original PanoMaticCalendar. The PanoMaticCalendar in red gold 1-92-09-02-05-02 retails at €28,300. Glashuette Origin
We recently had the opportunity to wear and test the PanoMaticCalendar in red gold with an elegant silver opaline dial and we are now delighted to share our impressions and pictures.
Crafted from red gold, the watch comes in a 42 mm x 12.4 mm case whose lines are highlighted by alternating polished and satin-brushed surfaces. The polished concave bezel is not only a beautiful detail but it also offers the advantage of being less prone to scratches than a convex one. Waterproofness is ensured up to a pressure of 5 bar (approximately 50 metres / 165 feet).
Thanks to its ergonomically designed lugs, the watch sits comfortably on the wrist, well secured by a brown Louisiana alligator leather strap with a nubuck finish that adds a pleasant informal touch to the elegant ensemble. The red gold pin buckle is engraved with the recurring double-G logo. A red gold folding clasp is also available as an option.
Protected by a glareproofed crystal, the dial is fashioned in a silver opaline hue that makes the rose gold applied hour markers, the hands and the other indications stand out. And, despite the asymmetry of the dial, the positioning of the indications gives a sense of complete harmony.
The self-intersecting auxiliary dials for hours and minutes and, below, small seconds are aligned along a vertical axis within the left half of the dial. Both sub-dials are enriched by a "snailed" decoration - or vinil-type pattern, as the brand calls it.
The sword-shaped hands indicating hours and minutes are filled with Super-LumiNova for enhanced visibility even in poor light conditions.
On the right, the Moon Phase curved window at 2 o'clock visually balances the signature Panorama Date at 4 o'clock and the new retrograde month display.
The silhouette of the gold moon is set off by a starry, galvanic sky whose blue is also used for the small second hand.
The high precision of the moon phase indication is guaranteed by a fine-toothed gear. Once correctly set using the corrector at 2 o'clock, and assuming that the watch runs continuously, it will not require any manual adjustment for the next 122 years.
The signature Panorama Date gives an example of the attention that this brand pays to even the smallest details. In fact, the two numerals defining the date are not separated by a central vertical bar thanks to the fact the two concentric display discs are mounted on the same level, a more complex solution to achieve but way more elegant.
In this model the date is coupled to a new, ingenious retrograde display that indicates the current month. A curved sapphire crystal window between 3 and 6 o'clock uses numerals to indicate the 12 months. The crystal is tinted grey, with the sole exception of the month numerals. The indicators on the month ring beneath it, which completes one revolution every four years, ensure in this manner that only one digit at a time is highlighted.
The adjustment of date and month is super easy and can be performed using the crown at 3 o'clock. Embossed with the double G, this has 3 positions:
- position 0 (when it is positioned against the case) to wind the movement;
- position 1 to adjust the date by rotating it counterclockwise or the month by rotating it clockwise;
- position 2 to adjust the time.
All the functions are driven by the new self-winding Manufacture Calibre 92 whose annual calendar function takes into account the months with 30 and 31 days. Differently from a perpetual calendar, the annual calendar requires that once a year, on March 1st, you adjust the date.
The date advances automatically at the end of the month from the 30th or 31st to the 1st. Serving as this function’s "memory", the month wheel rests on 38 tiny balls made of hardened steel with a diameter of 0.5 mm ensuring reduced friction for improved rate performance and less wear and tear in the long term.
The cam disc at the top of the wheel completes one revolution per year, and its irregular rim triggers the switching process at the end of the month; its indentations mark the months with 31 days. A small tooth on the underside of the wheel advances the month ring via a gear chain, bringing the retrograde display on the dial side to life.
Beating at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour), the silicon balance spring equipping the new calibre offers increased protection against the magnetic fields or changes in temperature, and a remarkable 100-hour power reserve for maximum autonomy.
The movement is secured in the case with a bayonet mounting, which ensures effective shock and impact resistance. Each watch is assembled, finished and regulated with great manual skill in the manufactory workshops.
The sapphire crystal case back showcases the state-of-the-art finishes of this Manufacture movement sporting the typical three-quarter plate construction with Glashütte stripes. Finishes include: beveled edges, blued screws, the hand-engraved balance cock with duplex swan-neck fine adjustment, and the skeletonized off-centre rotor with an oscillating mass in 21-carat gold and recurring double G symbol.
The new Glashütte Original PanoMaticCalendar in red gold (ref. 1-92-09-02-05-02) retails at Euro 28,300, a price that is particularly interesting when you consider the flawless quality - and we really mean it - of this timepiece, its exclusive manufacture movement driving an original annual calendar implementation, and the prestige of the brand.
The PanoMaticCalendar is also available in a 150-piece limited edition in platinum with a cut out black dial (ref. 1-92-10-01-03-62) with a price of Euro 40,400 (more about this model here).
Suggested reading:
A work of art. The best side of fine watchmaking.
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