Hands-on review of the Moser Streamliner Perpetual Calendar with live pics. H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar ref. 6812-1200 CHF 49,900
Following the recent launch of the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar by H. Moser & Cie., we recently had the opportunity to spend some time with this new model and we are now delighted to share our impressions and live pictures.
The perpetual calendar is one of the most appreciated and exclusive complications in watchmaking. But displaying all the calendar indications in a wristwatch dial - including date, month and leap year - can be quite challenging. The risk is to have an overcrowded dial with an impact on both readability and aesthetics.
Minimalist in its approach, the perpetual calendar implementation of Moser has been considered by many watch experts and collectors one of the smartest and most elegant since its introduction in 2005 and it is now available also on their latest collection, the Streamliner.
The result is a luxury steel watch of great refinement with a unique look and an amazing presence on the wrist.
The Streamliner Perpetual Calendar comes in a 42.3 mm cushion-shaped case with no lugs crafted from stainless steel and water resistant to 12 ATM (approximately 120 metres / 400 feet). Unconventionally positioned at 4 o'clock, the screwed crown is adorned with the "M" of the brand.
The beautiful lines are well highlighted by the alternation of satin-brushed and polished surfaces.
The hollowed and satin-finished forms on the caseband are a nod to the traditional style of Moser cases.
Protected by a slightly domed Glassbox-type sapphire crystal, the sunray fumé dial features four central hands. Depending on how the light hits the dial surface, the logo will appear or remain invisible.
The two large hours and minutes hands are formed of two sections with inserts made from Globolight, an innovative ceramic-based material which contains Super-LumiNova. The red and white outer minute track measures the movement of the central seconds hand.
The small red and white central hand is used in combination with the 12 hour indices to represent the month (1 o'clock for January, 2 o'clock for February, and so on).
The date window is positioned at 4 o'clock, in line with the crown. For an outsize display, the current date is showcased by means of two superimposed discs which operate one after the other, from 1 to 15, then from 16 to 31.
The date changes in a flash at midnight thanks to an instantaneous date-change mechanism. Very important, the date and month can be set forwards or backwards at any time, without risk to the movement.
The remarkable power reserve - 168 hours or 7 days! - is discreetly indicated at 10 o'clock.
Along with date and month, the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar also displays the leap year – all the while taking the lengths of the different months into account.
Correctly reproducing the transition from 28 to 29 February during leap years, and subsequently switching directly to 1 March at midnight of the leap day, the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar moved the leap year indicator on the movement side.
The 2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations per hour) hand-wound manufacture HMC 812 calibre is a feast for the eyes and can be admired through the transparent sapphire case-back.
Performed by hands, the finishes are outstanding with the traditional Moser double stripes and an anthracite grey PVD coating on the balance bridges, train wheels, barrel and escapement plate. The main plate is microblasted and features anthracite rhodium plating.
The movement features gold escapement wheel and pallet fork as well as the original Straumann hairspring with stabilised Breguet overcoil.
Following the line of the wrist, the steel bracelet is seamlessly integrated with the case. Its articulated links are meticulously finished combining vertical brushed surfaces with polished ones. The triple folding clasp is engraved with the Moser logo.
A versatile timepiece offering a causally elegant style, the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar by H. Moser & Cie. can be worn in almost any daily situation, with a causal fit at the seaside just like with a suit in a business meeting.
The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar ref. 6812-1200 has a price of CHF 49,900 / Euro 52,400, in line with the exclusivity and limited yearly production of the timepiece, its meticulous hand-made finishes and the integration of an advanced manufacture perpetual calendar movement.
COMMENTS