Review of the Zenith Chronomaster Revival Manufacture Edition 03.Z386.400/60.C843, a watch of sure prestige with a price of Euro 8,800
More than 50 years later, this movement is still one of the pillars in Zenith's production and one of the most important chronograph movements in watchmaking history.
The first El Primero Chronograph manufactured in 1969, the El Primero A386, was characterized by three subsidiary dials in blue, light grey and anthracite, a typical layout in many El Primero chronograph models also in the following years.
Last year, Zenith discovered an old prototype dial that, instead of these three colours, used three shades of blue. It was probably designed in those early days as an alternative to the A386’s dial but never brought to market until May of this year, when the Swiss brand launched the Chronomaster Revival A386 Manufacture Edition.
After our presentation article, we finally had the possibility to spend a few days with this model and we are now delighted to share our live pictures and impressions.
The watch comes in a 38 mm stainless steel case that is the faithful reproduction of the A386 model from 1969. In fact, in order to preserve the exact proportions, the blueprints of the original were used.
Thanks to its diameter and ergonomically-shaped lugs, the watch sits nicely on wrists of any size (the wrist in our pictures is 18cm / 7in).
Equipped with pump-style pushers, the case has a very thin bezel that leaves space to the luminous white-lacquered dial characterised by a 3-6-9 layout (30-minute chronograph counter at 3 o'clock, 12-hour chronograph counter at 6 o'clock and running seconds at 9 o'clock).
The curved glass with magnifying effect, the tachymeter scale on the outer ring, the date aperture at 4:30, the font, the hour-markers and the shape of the hands, including the red sweep seconds chronograph hand, are all respectful of the original.
The applied indexes and the hours, minutes and central seconds hands are treated with white Super-LumiNova for enhanced legibility in poor light conditions.
The black scale around the hour markers features 100 graduations because the El Primero movement is capable of tenth-of-a-second measurement. In fact, this legendary movement beats at a cadence of 5 Hz or 36,000 vibrations per hour (10 per seconds).
The El Primero chronographic functions are controlled by a wheel with large teeth called column-wheel. Easily recognizable through the sapphire crystal case-back for its blue colour, it controls the chronograph levers according to the impulses received (start and stop with the pusher at 2 o'clock, reset with the one at 4 o'clock). The column-wheel contributes to more accurate and precise functionality – noticeable through the smooth impulse when manipulating the pushers.
Equipped with a ballbearing-mounted and open-worked oscillating weight decorated with a “Côtes de Genève” pattern, this 278-part column-wheel chronograph calibre guarantees over 50 hours of power reserve.
The Zenith star is a recurring element. It can be found on the dial, the crown, the oscillating weight and the steel pin buckle securing the alligator leather strap to the wrist.
Delivered in a special packaging, mimicking a book that can be displayed on a bookshelf and bearing a blueprint of the Zenith manufacture on its cover, the watch is water resistant to 50 metres / 165 feet.
One of the most iconic chronographs ever designed now available with a new dial rendition of great appeal, the Zenith Chronomaster Revival A386 Manufacture Edition ref. 03.Z386.400/60.C843 is a watch of sure prestige, with a manufacture movement ensuring accuracy and reliability. Reasonably priced, especially when compared to the overall quality, this model retails at Euro 8,800 (including VAT) / US$ 8,700 (before local sales taxes). zenith-watches.com
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