Hands-on Review: Cyrus Klepcys Vertical Skeleton Tourbillon. Since its presentation at Baselworld 2019, we had the opportunity to put our hands on this exceptional timepiece and we are now delighted to share our report. The prices of the three new Cyrus Klepcys Vertical Tourbillon Skeleton models are highly exclusive but in line with their limited production and uniqueness: Euro 130,000 (ref. 539.506.DD.A), Euro 144,000 (ref. 539.506.GD.A), and Euro 164,000 (ref. 539.506.GG.A).
Swiss independent manufacture Cyrus is not a conventional one. If you explore their catalogue, you can discover that Cyrus watchmakers, led by a recognized master like Jean-Francois Mojon, have developed a wide range of complications, and always with an original and distinctive approach.
This is especially evident when you consider the Klepcys Vertical Skeleton Tourbillon, a model that deals with one of the most exclusive horological feats, the tourbillon, but definitely with a twist.
In fact, differently from traditional tourbillon devices that operate in a horizontal position, generally at 6 o'clock, the tourbillon cage of this exceptional Klepcys model is positioned at a 90° angle with respect to the dial (i.e. perpendicular to the dial).
Cyrus implemented this challenging technical solution not merely for aesthetic reasons or for the pleasure to make things differently (and establish a record as the world’s first wristwatch with a vertical tourbillon), but mainly to improve the accuracy of the watch.
In fact, Abraham-Louis Breguet invented the tourbillon (in 1801) because he realised that the regularity of a watch was affected by gravity when in vertical position, which happened often considering that pocket watches were in the waistcoat pocket most of the time.
Thanks to its understanding of physical laws, the ingenious watchmaker thought that it was possible to compensate the gravitational forces by installing the regulating organ and the escapement inside a mobile carriage performing a complete rotation about its own axis once per minute.
But with wristwatches replacing pocket watches, today most of the tourbillon devices operate in a horizontal position, an arrangement that makes the tourbillon lose some of its effectiveness.
Extensive research at Cyrus demonstrated that, by positioning the tourbillon cage perpendicular to the dial, the device operates more effectively because it remains vertical for most of the time over the course of 24 hours.
Positioned at this angle, the cage containing the regulating organ — composed by balance wheel, escapement and pallet fork — offsets the negative effects of gravity more effectively, thus improving the precision of the watch.
Since its presentation at Baselworld 2019, we had the opportunity to put our hands on this exceptional timepiece a few times and we are now delighted to share our report.
When you first handle the Klepcys Vertical Skeleton Tourbillon, you are impressed by its symmetry that starts with the arched vertical bridge and continues with the two retrograde displays for hours and minutes up to the visible wheels and gears of the movement and the signature two crowns.
The one at 3 o’clock adjusts the time and winds the movement, while the other at 9 o’clock can be pushed to rapidly adjust the hour without interfering with the running of the watch, a very useful feature when travelling.
Measuring 44 mm x 44 mm (crowns excluded) and offering water resistance to 30 metres / 100 feet, the case has an unconventional cushion shaped case and is available in three variations, each limited to 5 pieces: in grade 5 titanium with black DLC (Diamond Like Carbon) treatment, in a two-tone version in 4N rose gold with black DLC titanium bezel, and in 4N rose gold. For our review we used the latter two models.
Despite its pretty imposing size, the watch is comfortable on the wrist thanks to short and slightly curved lugs. Compared to other models of the same line, the new Klepcys Vertical Tourbillon Skeleton (as well as the non-openworked version) has been successfully streamlined with a slimmer middle case and a thinner bezel which leaves more space to the mesmerising dial.
This is protected by a high domed tailor-made sapphire crystal (the total thickness of the watch is 19.9 mm) which makes it possible to fully admire the vertical tourbillon from almost every angle. Even with such a pronounced curvature, the indications of the dial can be easily read at a glance thanks to the exceptional anti-reflection treatment applied to the 1.2 mm-thick glass.
The glass perfectly follows the profile of the central arched vertical bridge, a key design element of the watch that is meticulously refined using the “microbillage” technique with bevelled and polished edges. In gold or black DLC depending on the version, it blends with the lines of the case and emphasises the one-minute rotation of the tourbillon whose steel cage is made of 52 parts and has a total weight of just 0.706 grams!
Inspired by Leonardo da Vinci’s drawings, the shape of the bridge is found again in the skeletonized sculpted hands, the one on the left indicating the retrograde jumping hours in Arabic numerals while the one on the right reading off the sweeping retrograde minutes.
The seconds are displayed in the centre on a scale of 5, and can be read off the tourbillon cage thanks to small blocks engraved with Arabic numerals in white, with the exception of the "30" and “60" seconds block which stand out for their bright red.
Between the two arches of the tourbillon bridge, the black-DLC 5 mm sphere at 12 o’clock displays the days of the watch’s power reserve (1-4), visually balanced by the Cyrus logo at 6 o’clock.
Just above the brand logo, you can notice the 90° gear train which makes it possible to position the tourbillon vertically. On both sides of the arched bridge, the wheels and gears that govern the hours and minutes sectors are on display.
The bridges of the skeleton movement are microbillé with a dark grey NAC galvanic treatment, and the edges are bevelled and polished. The levers of the retrograde system are satin-polished and rhodium plated. The wheels are rhodium-plated and decorated with cerclage, the cams are mirror-polished.
The tourbillon cage is revealed also through the flat sapphire crystal of the caseback together with other interesting details of the 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour) hand-wound manufacture calibre CYR625. Like the two barrels - recognizable for their black lacquered ratchet-wheels representing the Maison’s logo - that guarantee a remarkable power reserve of 100 hours (more than 4 days).
The caseback is fastened with screws customised with the Cyrus logo, another confirmation of the level of attention that the brand pays to even the smaller details.
Cyrus must be praised for its capability to innovate and explore new technical solutions while honoring the watchmaking tradition.
As it is easy to imagine, the prices of the three new Cyrus Klepcys Vertical Tourbillon Skeleton models are highly exclusive but in line with their limited production and uniqueness: Euro 130,000 in grade 5 titanium with black DLC treatment (ref. 539.506.DD.A), Euro 144,000 in a two-tone version in 4N rose gold with black DLC titanium bezel (ref. 539.506.GD.A), and Euro 164,000 in 4N rose gold (ref. 539.506.GG.A). cyrus-watches.ch
This is especially evident when you consider the Klepcys Vertical Skeleton Tourbillon, a model that deals with one of the most exclusive horological feats, the tourbillon, but definitely with a twist.
In fact, differently from traditional tourbillon devices that operate in a horizontal position, generally at 6 o'clock, the tourbillon cage of this exceptional Klepcys model is positioned at a 90° angle with respect to the dial (i.e. perpendicular to the dial).
Cyrus implemented this challenging technical solution not merely for aesthetic reasons or for the pleasure to make things differently (and establish a record as the world’s first wristwatch with a vertical tourbillon), but mainly to improve the accuracy of the watch.
In fact, Abraham-Louis Breguet invented the tourbillon (in 1801) because he realised that the regularity of a watch was affected by gravity when in vertical position, which happened often considering that pocket watches were in the waistcoat pocket most of the time.
Thanks to its understanding of physical laws, the ingenious watchmaker thought that it was possible to compensate the gravitational forces by installing the regulating organ and the escapement inside a mobile carriage performing a complete rotation about its own axis once per minute.
But with wristwatches replacing pocket watches, today most of the tourbillon devices operate in a horizontal position, an arrangement that makes the tourbillon lose some of its effectiveness.
Extensive research at Cyrus demonstrated that, by positioning the tourbillon cage perpendicular to the dial, the device operates more effectively because it remains vertical for most of the time over the course of 24 hours.
Positioned at this angle, the cage containing the regulating organ — composed by balance wheel, escapement and pallet fork — offsets the negative effects of gravity more effectively, thus improving the precision of the watch.
Since its presentation at Baselworld 2019, we had the opportunity to put our hands on this exceptional timepiece a few times and we are now delighted to share our report.
When you first handle the Klepcys Vertical Skeleton Tourbillon, you are impressed by its symmetry that starts with the arched vertical bridge and continues with the two retrograde displays for hours and minutes up to the visible wheels and gears of the movement and the signature two crowns.
Measuring 44 mm x 44 mm (crowns excluded) and offering water resistance to 30 metres / 100 feet, the case has an unconventional cushion shaped case and is available in three variations, each limited to 5 pieces: in grade 5 titanium with black DLC (Diamond Like Carbon) treatment, in a two-tone version in 4N rose gold with black DLC titanium bezel, and in 4N rose gold. For our review we used the latter two models.
Despite its pretty imposing size, the watch is comfortable on the wrist thanks to short and slightly curved lugs. Compared to other models of the same line, the new Klepcys Vertical Tourbillon Skeleton (as well as the non-openworked version) has been successfully streamlined with a slimmer middle case and a thinner bezel which leaves more space to the mesmerising dial.
This is protected by a high domed tailor-made sapphire crystal (the total thickness of the watch is 19.9 mm) which makes it possible to fully admire the vertical tourbillon from almost every angle. Even with such a pronounced curvature, the indications of the dial can be easily read at a glance thanks to the exceptional anti-reflection treatment applied to the 1.2 mm-thick glass.
The glass perfectly follows the profile of the central arched vertical bridge, a key design element of the watch that is meticulously refined using the “microbillage” technique with bevelled and polished edges. In gold or black DLC depending on the version, it blends with the lines of the case and emphasises the one-minute rotation of the tourbillon whose steel cage is made of 52 parts and has a total weight of just 0.706 grams!
Between the two arches of the tourbillon bridge, the black-DLC 5 mm sphere at 12 o’clock displays the days of the watch’s power reserve (1-4), visually balanced by the Cyrus logo at 6 o’clock.
Just above the brand logo, you can notice the 90° gear train which makes it possible to position the tourbillon vertically. On both sides of the arched bridge, the wheels and gears that govern the hours and minutes sectors are on display.
The bridges of the skeleton movement are microbillé with a dark grey NAC galvanic treatment, and the edges are bevelled and polished. The levers of the retrograde system are satin-polished and rhodium plated. The wheels are rhodium-plated and decorated with cerclage, the cams are mirror-polished.
Cyrus must be praised for its capability to innovate and explore new technical solutions while honoring the watchmaking tradition.
As it is easy to imagine, the prices of the three new Cyrus Klepcys Vertical Tourbillon Skeleton models are highly exclusive but in line with their limited production and uniqueness: Euro 130,000 in grade 5 titanium with black DLC treatment (ref. 539.506.DD.A), Euro 144,000 in a two-tone version in 4N rose gold with black DLC titanium bezel (ref. 539.506.GD.A), and Euro 164,000 in 4N rose gold (ref. 539.506.GG.A). cyrus-watches.ch
The movement is truly impressive!
ReplyDeleteWe often think that everything has been already done in watch design. This proves it's not true.
ReplyDeleteThanks for the comprehensive review. Impressive watch.
ReplyDeleteThanks, we are glad you liked it!
Delete