Breguet Classique 5395 Tourbillon. The just announced Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395 by Breguet is a work of art, one of those timepieces that generate wonder whether you are a watch enthusiast or not. The Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395 is available with a gray movement in a rose gold case (ref. 5395BR/1S/9WU), or with a rose movement in a platinum case (ref. 5395PT/RS/9WU) with prices of Euro 222,700 and Euro 237,800 respectively.
The just announced Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395 by Breguet is a work of art, one of those timepieces that generate wonder whether you are a watch enthusiast or not.
Based on the 581 Calibre equipping the 5377 and 5367 models, the new skeletonised 581SQ Calibre had to be completely rethought in order to allow the removal of almost 50 per cent of the total material.
After being hardened, the gold plate and bridges have been hollowed out so as to display the mechanical anatomy of the movement. The challenge of this undertaking lies primarily in removing as much material as possible, while preserving the technical properties of the various different components and the robustness of the structure,
A truly novel watchmaking complication made even more challenging by the choice of gold. Once the chosen alloy has hardened, sophisticated expertise and care are needed to achieve the final result. Breguet is one of the last watchmakers to fashion gold to this standard.
With a thickness of just three millimeters, this is one of the finest self-winding tourbillon movements in the world. To achieve this result, a number of complex adjustments were required. The rotor was placed on the periphery of the plate, saving on thickness while at the same time preserving a clear view of the mechanism. The titanium carriage of the tourbillon was redesigned to engage directly with the wheel train, not via the intermediary of a pinion at its base. And to save space, the silicon escapement was given a distinct angled shape.
All the 325 pieces, whether visible or not, are meticulously finished. Engraving, engine-turning, and anglage transform this mechanical masterpiece in a piece of art.
Clous de Paris hobnailing is created using a diamond-tipped guilloché tool here, a method that gives this work of art a distinct splendour but allows for no imperfections. This kind of work on an item like this is a first at Breguet. The sharp edges are painstakingly chamfered by hand, using a file until a perfectly smooth and even 45-degree bevel is created. Significant engraving work is then carried out by hand for different inscriptions as well as borders to frame the holes.
Beating at 28,800 vibrations per hour, the Calibre 381 SQ guarantees an outstanding power reserve of 80 hours thanks to a high-energy barrel.
The movement is housed in a 41 mm x 7.70 mm fluted case with soldered horns. Protected by a domed glass-box, the sapphire dial features applied hour markers in blued gold. The hours chapter is created using galvanic growth and the timer is laser-engraved and filled with blue varnish. The traditional blued moon-tipped hands give the final unmistakable touch.
Water-resistant to 30 meters, the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395 is available with a gray movement in a rose gold case (ref. 5395BR/1S/9WU), or with a rose movement in a platinum case (ref. 5395PT/RS/9WU) with prices of Euro 222,700 and Euro 237,800 respectively. breguet.com
Suggested reading:
- The Tourbillon, history of a watchmaking feat
After being hardened, the gold plate and bridges have been hollowed out so as to display the mechanical anatomy of the movement. The challenge of this undertaking lies primarily in removing as much material as possible, while preserving the technical properties of the various different components and the robustness of the structure,
With a thickness of just three millimeters, this is one of the finest self-winding tourbillon movements in the world. To achieve this result, a number of complex adjustments were required. The rotor was placed on the periphery of the plate, saving on thickness while at the same time preserving a clear view of the mechanism. The titanium carriage of the tourbillon was redesigned to engage directly with the wheel train, not via the intermediary of a pinion at its base. And to save space, the silicon escapement was given a distinct angled shape.
Engraving (gravure)
Engine-turning (guillochage)
Above and below, chamfering (anglage)
The movement is housed in a 41 mm x 7.70 mm fluted case with soldered horns. Protected by a domed glass-box, the sapphire dial features applied hour markers in blued gold. The hours chapter is created using galvanic growth and the timer is laser-engraved and filled with blue varnish. The traditional blued moon-tipped hands give the final unmistakable touch.
Water-resistant to 30 meters, the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395 is available with a gray movement in a rose gold case (ref. 5395BR/1S/9WU), or with a rose movement in a platinum case (ref. 5395PT/RS/9WU) with prices of Euro 222,700 and Euro 237,800 respectively. breguet.com
Suggested reading:
- The Tourbillon, history of a watchmaking feat
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