When Christophe Claret decided to develop the Maestoso timepiece, he was aware he was taking on a big challenge: to equip a wristwatch with a traditional detent escapement, a mechanism usually designed to run in a perfectly stabilized position. The 44mm diameter case of the Christophe Claret Maestoso, presented at BaselWorld 2014, is available in anthracite PVD titanium with red gold, in red gold or in anthracite PVD titanium with white gold.
When Christophe Claret decided to develop the Maestoso timepiece, he was aware he was taking on a big challenge: to equip a wristwatch with a traditional detent escapement, a mechanism usually designed to run in a perfectly stabilized position.
This type of detent escapement first appeared in the 18th century to be used to determine a ship’s exact geographical position at sea with the maximum precision. Regarded as the quintessence of chronometric precision, even ahead of the tourbillon, the detent escapement was found primarily in marine chronometers, mounted on gimbals to ensure an invariable position. Unfortunately, it had the weakness of being particularly sensitive to lateral impacts. In fact, the slightest shock to a detent escapement can cause it to stop or even release the escape wheel and break. Another danger is over-banking, in which an external shock, or even setting the time, can cause the balance wheel to oscillate with excess amplitude.
This type of detent escapement first appeared in the 18th century to be used to determine a ship’s exact geographical position at sea with the maximum precision. Regarded as the quintessence of chronometric precision, even ahead of the tourbillon, the detent escapement was found primarily in marine chronometers, mounted on gimbals to ensure an invariable position. Unfortunately, it had the weakness of being particularly sensitive to lateral impacts. In fact, the slightest shock to a detent escapement can cause it to stop or even release the escape wheel and break. Another danger is over-banking, in which an external shock, or even setting the time, can cause the balance wheel to oscillate with excess amplitude.
Enabling the mechanism of the Maestoso to operate in all the positions that wearing a wristwatch entails – without resorting to the convenience of a modern, shorter detent – was a real challenge as confirmed by the filing of three patents.
To prevent the detent from turning over, an anti-pivot cam, integral to the spring balance, works in conjunction with the safety finger. The ensemble is fitted between a mainplate and two sapphire bridges, and pivots on a ball bearing – a patented mechanism – that distributes the load on the escapement. So, it absorbs the impacts by means of a spring that provides the requisite flexibility.
Christophe Claret has also endowed the watch with a constant force, guaranteeing stable energy and amplitude throughout the power reserve. Finally, a stop seconds, another patented device, also plays an essential role by stopping the balance when setting the time. Two mainspring barrels provide a power reserve of more than 80 hours.
Thanks to the fact that the upper bridge is crafted from sapphire crystal, it is possible the beauty of the mechanism. The sculpted pillars open up a lateral view of the mechanism showcasing the cylindrical balance spring.
The whole watch – case, hands and all the parts of the movement, down to the balance spring – was designed, manufactured and assembled in Manufacture Claret's workshops.
The 44mm diameter case of the Christophe Claret Maestoso is available in anthracite PVD titanium with red gold, in red gold or in anthracite PVD titanium with white gold.
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